Olivia's Gown, day 3 and 4

Day 3

This is a continuation of Olivia's 3.5 day dressmaking experience.  

Check here for the first half.

Here is an example of the small adjustments I make to perfect the fit.  You can see the original seam line and the pins are indicating the new one.  Looks like it is an adjustment of about an eighth of an inch.  Silly.  

After all of the adjustments are made, it is time to finalize the bodice. That means sew the seams with a small stitch instead of the basting stitch used initially.  I have used many layers and need to trim some of the seams quite closely.  This helps the seams lay better in the end.  I learned this from Susan Khalje.  Another life changing resource for the dressmaker.  I have taken two classes from her I will forever be grateful for the things I learned.    

 I hand stitched the channels for the spiral boning on the inside.  Also something Susan taught me.  You can see the effect in above photo.  

There would have been another fitting that I don't have pictures of.  Darn it.  

We would have placed the sleeves in the appropriate place at that time.  We also marked the hem, which I am always excited about.  It just cleans the look up so nicely.  I like to use horse hair for this.  It gives the hem a nice bit of personality in my opinion.  

 This is the last fitting of the day.  Olivia and her mom are here in the evening.  If all is well, this fitting is used to address the small details, check the fit, the hem, and finalize the jewels. 

The dress is due tomorrow.  I have a huge amount to do before they leave.  I expect to stay up extremely late on the last night of an out of town bride's dress.  The finish work always takes ten times as long as I think it should. 

I always hit a wall about midnight.  That is when the BBC news comes on.  It is depressing for a bit and then I get my second wind, thankfully.  

*

Day 3 for Olivia and her mom included a morning fitting, lunch in Park City, and a lift ride at Sundance Resort.  It is an enviable day in my opinion.  They then had the evening fitting pictured above then dinner at The Tortilla Bar in Orem.  That place is the ultimate when it comes to interesting and refreshing combinations of flavors.  I love the hanger steak tacos and the avocado tacos.  The melon salad is insane, in a good way.  

This photo features the lift ride at Sundance.  So relaxing.  

*

Day 4

This is the final moment.  Whew.  We place the jewels on the finished dress.  Olivia and her mom found a necklace with blue stones.  I took it apart and nestled one of the jewels on the neckline for that "something blue".  

They will go on an errand for an hour or so while I sew on the jeweled neckline and add the button detail.  I am pretty relaxed at this point.  Looks like the dress came together and we can send the dress off with the bride on her afternoon flight.  

Thanks for the great experience Olivia!  It was fun to work on your dress and get to know you and your mom.  I shouldn't say this, but I think Olivia's mom teared up a bit when they left.  

Now isn't that just the perfect ending?  

The Olivia Gown, Day 1 and 2

Day 1

 I always love to work with my out of town brides.  Olivia is no exception!  I thought you might enjoy seeing a day by day report of Olivia and her mother's time out here.  She lives in Chicago and her mom lives in Lewisville.  Since they don't live around each other, the trip turned out to be a "mother-daughter" bonding time.  It is great that I get to be part of something like that. The above picture is what it looks like to arrive for your first measure.  It must be so daunting to fly out without knowing what is in store.  Hopefully this post gives you an idea of the process.

The first meeting involves sketching up the dress and making sure fabric choices are perfect.  I send out fabric samples ahead of time, but seeing a smaller piece is so different than seeing yards and yards.  

I measured Olivia using the most amazing technique I learned from Mr. Kenneth King.  Kenneth learned how to do "The Moulage" from quite the teacher back in the day.  He has written up instructions in a very easy to follow book.  It has changed my life!  If you are a dressmaker, you need this book!

Off subject, I know.  

Day 2

Back to Olivia.  We met later in the day, so I didn't see Olivia for our second meeting until the next morning.  This is what the first fit looks like.  It is made of a muslin and if I am lucky, it is close to the intended dress shape.  Olivia is living well, so there were only minor adjustments.  

I have to take steps to get the neckline to lay correctly.  Especially when you consider the weight that will be attached here later.  The pleats, darts, and tucks are adjusted now so the dress will behave later.  I also draw the shape of the neckline at this point.   

Olivia and her mom are off the hook for half the day after this fitting.  This is when I take the muslin apart and make all of the adjustments.   

Then I lay the real fabrics out.  The linings, silk, and any other supportive fabrics that are needed.  They are cut out.  I then sew the boning casings on to the inner layer.  Once completed, I hand sew the layers together before sewing the dress together.  Probably not making sense at this point.  It isn't you, it is me.  I shouldn't be trying to explain myself this late at night.  

Because this is an "out of town bride" I need to be working on all aspects of the dress at once.  So if I have a break, I work on the jewels for the neckline.  It is important that I have things coming along in case I am wandering in the wrong direction creatively.  

Quite a few hours later, Olivia and her mom are back for a fitting with the real fabric.  This is when you can see the essence of the dress.  We also look at the neckline jewels and make sure I am on track.  

I am the one trying to bring in the sides of the dress while successfully avoiding being in the picture.  It just looks weird, I know.  

***

Between the two fittings,  Olivia and her mom went up to S.L.C. to do a bit of shopping and see the sights.  This is Olivia in the Tabernacle at Temple Square. 

Olivia did her homework before arriving.  She had a list of the best places to eat around here.  I do enjoy steering my brides towards places to eat.  Olivia's list of restaurants matched mine.  So I think they did Pizzeria 712 for dinner that night.  Dang, now I am craving their housemade sausage, caramelized onion, roasted fennel, tomato sauce, mozzarella pizza right now.  

I am getting pretty tuckered.  I don't know if it is because I am thinking of the intense 3.5 day wedding dress or because it is just getting late.  We will continue the story another day.  There are only 1.5 days left to complete the dress.  Will it get done?  Will there be a canine at the wedding party with a bow tie?  These questions will be answered at a later time.

***

Self Help for the Creative

This Crazy Awesome work is created by my sister.  She is self taught and has an eye for color that most can only envy.  Because we both have the feeling of creative self doubt, we talk each other down from those many moments of frustration inherent in projects.  I admire her work so much and she doesn't get it.... that is, she doesn't get how cool her work is to others.  This, in a demented way, gives me hope.  I experience the feeling of never quite arriving with my gowns and she never feels like her paintings are finished.  Yay, maybe to another's eye, my stuff is okay.  

Anyway, she sent a great quote the other day.  I found it completely inspiring and want to pass it on to you.  This is for the creatively frustrated people out there.  The ones who feel the emotion of building something, whether it is in word, music, clay, metal, or even silk.  It explains the reason there is hesitation before starting something that has potential.  I love that my feelings can be justified in this way!  Mostly, though, I am relieved that there are other people out there that experience the same emotions I do.  Phew!

   

This is the other secret that real artists know and wannabe writers don't. When we sit down each day and do our work, power concentrates around us. The Muse takes note of our dedication. She approves. We have earned favor in her sight. When we sit down and work, we become like a magnetized rod that attracts iron filings. Ideas come. Insights accrete."

Resistance is experienced as fear; the degree of fear equates to the strength of Resistance. Therefore the more fear we feel about a specific enterprise, the more certain we can be that that enterprise is important to us and to the growth of our soul. That's why we feel so much Resistance. If it meant nothing to us, there'd be no Resistance."

"Are you paralyzed with fear? That's a good sign. Fear is good. Like self-doubt, fear is an indicator. Fear tells us what we have to do. Remember one rule of thumb: the more scared we are of a work or calling, the more sure we can be that we have to do it."

- Steven Pressfield  stevenpressfield.com

I especially love the part about the Muse taking note of our effort.  The gowns that I am happiest about are the ones to which I gave my heart and soul.  With those gowns a magical thing that happens where something bigger takes over.  I have always described it as something spiritual.  

Could that be my Muse? 

 I wonder.  

Note, this is a 3 foot wide painting, as I remember it.  The thing is huge and vibrant.  

It isn't your mama's floral painting!

Creative Garden Shoot with Eliza

So good to see you.... it has been a while. 

We haven't had internet for so very long.  I will try to play catch up and post a few pictures. 

I will start with a colorful garden shoot arranged by Mollie Openshaw and Amanda Schelin.

I am amazed by the colors, oversize flowers, great images, and the hair and makeup that is overly cool.  Thanks, ladies, for letting me in on this shoot.  Thank you, Eliza, for dawning your dress for another day.  You looked great!

Concept by Mollie and Amanda
Photography:  Mikki Platt
Floral and design:  Amanda of Branches Floral Design
Invitations and graphics:  Mollie of Polka Dots ans Daisies
Cake:  Julie from Layers
Flower girl dress:  Persnickety
Hair and makeup:  Flavia from Versa Artistry

 This dress was documented earlier while in the building process.  It is a nod to Christian Dior's New look.  I had a great time using crazy amounts of boning to build the under structure.  It was a challenge and I loved it. 

 Can I say I love this flower necklace.  So bright and beautiful. 

 Such a sweet girl in a sweet dress.  Made by Persnickety.

Can't get enough of the turquoise color!

Audrey's sneak peak

Today I feel like a real dressmaker.

Scott always asks me how it is going.  I usually can't say. 

I usually don't know how the dress fares.  Today I did. 

What a great moment to look down at it and become so happy. 

I even feel official because I like how the stitching looks on the back of the beaded sleeve.

 I have such a respect for the beautiful beading I see in Burgdorf Goodman or one of the museum exhibits I am lucky enough to see.  After these sleeves, my respect has grown EVER SO MUCH.  How do they do it????  I am determined to find out.... someday. 

Thanks Audrey, wishing you a happy wedding! 

A NYC Trip!

There is a class I have been wanting to attend for years and years and I am finally making it happen.  Susan Khalje teaches couture dressmaking skills.  She teaches all over the United States and even takes dressmakers to Paris for more than a week.  Can you imagine???? 

So this means I get to go to New york, collect some interesting fabrics and laces for the upcoming season, and attend a four day class.  I have so many questions that need answers and am confident that I will be enlightened by Susan and the Master Pattern Maker Kenneth King. 

So if anyone out there has some suggestions on where to eat, what shows to see, or if there are any museum exhibits that are interesting, let me know.  I would love your input.  The great thing about this trip is I don't need to source anything specific.  So I get to just go buy things that are amazing to me.  Shopping for fabric is a wonderful pass time.  Wish me luck so I can find some special things.

One last note, I get to stay with Viena, Amanda's mom.  They came to Utah to have Amanda's dress made last year.  Our family became smitten with the two women.  I am looking forward to hearing more interesting stories of Viena's life.... because she has had quite an amazing life.

Here is my last thing.  If anyone living in New York City needs a dress made at a reduced cost, and has time to go to fitting at the end of this month, contact me.  

Have a wonderful day.  M     

horse hair

I just had the pleasure of using horse hair.  Not a big deal, really, I use it all of the time.  This time I brought out the really strong stuff.  I imagine Charles James used the same when creating above gown. 

I just finished a dress for Annie.  She is an artist that lives in D.C.  She came home to get married.  She came early to get a gown made.  I had a great time with this gown.  We knew the elements we would use.  We just didn't know we would be going so sculptural with it.  Thus the horse hair.  Do you see how the pictured gown goes in and out in waves.  That is thanks to horse hair.... and the genius of Charles James. 

Charles James is an interesting character.  I discovered his gowns over and over again.  They were always the ones that caught my eye when looking through fashion books.  I finally figured out that it was the same guy creating all of these works of art.  I am not good with names.  Anyway, just a brief tidbit about him.  He was designing in the 60's and creating quite structured gowns.  He was pretty sought after.  Then the free flowing, non structured frocks took hold.  I think it really set him back.  He didn't do as well then.  He had such incredible and big gowns.  There are quite a few available to see in museums because the women would donate them.  Thankfully we have so many to inspire us.   

Tragically he died in the Chelsey Hotel of pneumonia in the 80's.  I do love his story and I do love his gowns.  Funny how I can be so effected by other's work.  There is nothing like the old school way of doing things.  How I wish could learn it.  The more I make gowns the less I know.  Why is that?

Elie Saab, enough said.

"Love of beauty is taste.  The creation of beauty is art." 
-Ralph Waldo Emerson

I read this quote today and thought of Elie Saab's insanely beautiful gowns.  Here is a small sample of his breathtaking, awe-inspiring, bring tears to my eyes, gowns.  I have no words. 

I love that there is always something better to strive for.  I love that every day I can try harder and never even come close to someone like this.  It is THIS that keeps us all going.  Otherwise, what is the point. 

I so would love to know what inspires you. 

Funny Face with Audrey Hepburn

Funny Face has got to be one of my favorite movies... for the costumes, cast, and overall wonderfulness of it.  Is that a word?  Probably not. 

I would love to talk about Audrey Hepburn, but she is such a legend, I really couldn't do her justice.  The woman behind these costumes is pretty legendary as well.  But only tonight did I put two and two together.  The designer of this movie and so many others, is Edith Head.  Who knew?  Well, I didn't. 

I feel like I haven't thrown around my respect the way I should.  I should KNOW who did this movie.  How terrible that I didn't.  I have watched it enough.  I know just what the wedding dress looks like as Audrey dances with Fred on the banks of the Seine.  Is that where they danced?  I know this image of Audrey going down the steps in the Louvre with this insanely breathtaking gown.  But I didn't know who was behind these creations.  Shame on me.  I now know what I will be reading up on in the next few days. 

This is where this post turns from Audrey and gowns to my random life.  

I just had a wonderful night with the boys.  We went to a perfect wedding lunch for Brittany.  Pictures will be posted later.  It was great to go to the event.  It is nice to see the dress on the day and I loved that I got to talk to a few previous brides and some moms.  I am lucky to work with such kind and happy people!  After that, we walked around SLC.  When it was time to go back to the car, Hank was quite sad about it and wanted to keep exploring.  I bribed him with the promise of a mango lassie at one of our Indian restaurants.  So the end of the night included watching Indian music videos, eating chicken Marsala, and sipping on our own mango lassies.  I don't know how it could get any better. 

Fanciful Designs Blog

Are these not just the most beautiful flowers you have ever seen? 

Whenever I check this blog, I feel so overwhelmed because of the things she can create.  

 

This will sound weird, but this is a testament to great materials.  Just like a beautiful gown needing the best silk or French lace to make it right, these flowers also need a hefty and archival paper.  A paper with weight and character.  Only a paper with those qualities could make such a breathtaking flower.  This woman is truly an artisan.  Check out all of her beautiful things at fanciful-fanciful.blogspot.com.